Monday 27 July 2015

The Story of Swatch


The iconic '12 Flags' model from 1984

The quartz and digital revolution of the 70's and 80's that came out of Japan hit the Swiss watchmaking industry hard. It's estimated that between 1977 & 1983, the number of people employed in the industry in Switzerland dropped from 90 000 to less than 40 000. Swatch hit back with the creation of their colourful plastic watches which were cheap to make and to buy and were the first Swiss watches to be battery powered. Not only were they cheap but they were cleverly designed too; the three-pronged hinge on the strap prevented the strap from coming off during water sports and the battery could be easily replaced by the owner. The movement was fixed to the case back, therefore simplifying the workings and reducing weight and size and replacement straps could be bought in different colours to customise the watch. The downside of the rationalised manufacturing process is that every Swatch is a sealed unit and can't be repaired if the movement fails, effectively making it a disposable watch.




Swatch prototypes from 1982


The Swatch revolution brought about a change of thinking with regards to multiple watch ownership. Swatch collecting became popular and the watch became a fashion accessory. No longer was a watch simply a once-off special gift for an 18th or 21st birthday but something to collect, an attitude which is now common among watch enthusiasts. Swatch released their models alongside the fashion industry seasons, which meant (and still means) that each swatch design is a limited edition and potentially collectible. Some of the early 80's models now sell for tens of thousands of dollars to watch collectors. 




The 'Techno-sphere' model of 1985 is another iconic and sought-after example.





Recent models have sported simple, colourful and striking designs which are similar to the original models of the mid-80's. 





Swatch's rapid success led to all sorts of exotic designs designs in the range as well as a collaboration with Mercedes Benz to create the Smart Car.


The Success of the business led to the formation of the Swatch Group which was able to buy and rescue a number of struggling watch brands including Omega, Tissot, Hamilton, Blancpain, Breguet Glasshutte Original, Certina, Tiffany & Co, Calvin Klein, Jaquet Droz and others, resulting in the Swatch group being regarded as the saviour of Swiss watchmaking. 

Despite there being such a choice of designs, the classic geometry of the original designs has remained a favourite with buyers and in recent years, Swatch have returned to producing models which are aesthetically very close the originals with simple, clean looks and plenty of colour. Technology now allows for the parts of the movement to have colour applied to them which helps highlight the intricacy of the parts.  An automatic model was released in the mid-90's but reliability was a problem. Recently, Swatch released their Sistem-51 models with a highly advanced, and very attractive automatic movement with a staggering 90-hour power reserve, more than double what most automatic movements can offer. 



For those interested in Swatch collecting, www.squiggly.com is the site to visit. Here, collectors can browse every model ever produced and old models are available to buy if they're in stock. It's also a useful resource to value an old Swatch that you might have lying around.  

Some models to avoid: in the mid-90's, Swatch produced transparent straps in various colours with elaborate designs on them. These were not printed onto the strap but laminated on with a thin film. These straps are prone to peeling and cracking with age and may not be the best models for collecting. Clear straps and cases are also prone to yellowing over time, and collectors may want to focus their buying on watches with solid colours on the cases and straps.  

Below is a brief timeline of the company's history, which includes the auction price of a 'Jellyfish', a model once owned by this writer, but which sadly broke a few decades ago. 














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