In this blog I will be featuring all sorts of interesting watches that I've admired or owned and I'll be adding any interesting updates from the industry and the market place.
For anyone who followed motor racing in the early 80's, the term 'Group B' evokes memories of rally cars like the original Audi Quattro, the Lancia Delta Integrale and the Lancia Stratos. The Group B phase of rallying was probably the last romantic era of the sport which had to be brought to a close because the cars were simply too powerful to be safe.
Watchmakers Autodromo have been capturing attention recently with their motor sport inspired watches at very reasonable prices. Their latest offering is the Group B model which, like their other models, does a fantastic job in capturing the spirit of motor sport, especially this very special era of rallying in the early 80's.
The Group B is powered by a Miyota 9015 automatic movement which is housed in a 39mm titanium case. 39mm may sound a little small by today's watch sizes, but the reality is that it's probably the perfect size for most wrists. The watch is available with white, red, blue or yellow face markings and hands with matching nylon straps which have been designed in the style of racing harnesses. This design feature could have cheapened the concept if it had been done badly, but in this case it's absolutely perfect with just enough subtle detail to carry the theme for those who appreciate it. Each watch also comes with a grey nylon strap. Water resistance is to 50m (5 ATM) and all models have a sapphire crystal.
Somehow Autodromo have managed to capture a variety of design elements from the 1980's, it's almost as if the the design has originated from a company like Lancia or Audi. The price is $925 which is incredible value for a watch of this style and quality and orders can be made directly off the Autodromo website.
Now and again, an exceptional piece of engineering is developed and the Leatherman Tread is one of those. The term 'wearable' has become a noun over the past few years as tech companies develop what are either elaborate heart rate monitors or miniature smart phones in the form of wrist watches. As fascinating as these gadgets are, they're still far from being complete, functional products. The Leatherman Tread is a genuine wearable tool who's main purpose is mechanical functionality rather than electronic entertainment.
The Tread is a bracelet made up of a variety of popular tools and the interchangeable links allow the owner to customise the content. It's available to buy as a stand-alone bracelet or with an optional watch which is the perfect addition to this already perfect tool. It's a Swiss-made quartz watch with sapphire crystal and rotating bezel for timekeeping. Water resistance is to 200m. The usual Leatherman quality is evident in the manufacturing
The Tread is available in black or regular stainless steel. At the time of writing, bracelets are on sale for $175 in the US but there is no sign yet of the watch attachment on the retail market, let's hope it's not just a teaser.
As a second prize option, Leatherman also sell the Clipwatch (shown below) for around $90, but it's still not a wrist watch and it's not a multi-tool.
The Leatherman Tread has already made it onto this writer's Christmas list, and if it can't this year through lack of availability of the watch attachment, then next year is fine by me. Here are a couple of videos showing off the product.
To coincide with the launch of the new James Bond film, Omega have realease a 'Spectre' version of the Seamaster 300. Omega's James Bond editions have often been a bit cheesy in years gone by, but this time they've offered a refined and good-looking watch without any obvious 007 references.
The watch features a black ceramic bi-directional bezel with hourly divisions which can be used for keeping time for a second time zone. It's not quite a full GMT watch as it doesn't have a 24 hour hand and neither does it have a date, and for those reasons it's probably not a serious challenger to the Rolex GMT Master. A unique feature of this model is the lollipop second hand which is different to the usual arrow head featured on other Seamasters.
The watch comes fitted with a five-stripe NATO strap, giving it a 1960's look. NATO straps have made a comeback in the last few years and Omega are one of the last major manufacturers to join this particular party. Leather and steel straps are also available as alternatives but the NATO strap sets it apart from other modern Seamaster models. The sapphire crystal is domed in a vintage style and the hands and hour markers are coated with a Super-Luminova which has been coloured to look like yellowed Radium or Tritium. The Super-Luminova emits a blue glow in dark conditions.
Water resistance is to 30 bar or 300 metres and the case diameter is a very sensible 41mm. The movement is Omega's self-winding 8400 caliber with a 60 hour power reserve. With a launch price of £4785 it's eye wateringly expensive, especially as it doesn't have a 24 hour hand or calendar. Part of the appeal is that the watch is limited to 7007 pieces, but the same money could buy something far more special or unique. That said, this is a very well designed watch with classic proportions and subtle vintage references. Unlike other contemporary Omega models, this one is likely not to date as tastes evolve and unlike previous 007 editions will probably become a genuine collectible.
New in 2015 is this beautiful revival of Oris' iconic 1960's design which first appeared 50 years ago. The new watch shares the retro looks of the original but has been increased in size from a case size of 36mm to a more contemporary (but not too large) 40mm.
The scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal adds to the vintage appeal as does the water resistance of 100m. Oris must have been tempted to take the water resistance up to a more modern 200m or 300m but that would have required a far more robust crystal and would have added unnecessarily to the cost. This model seems to be mostly about faithfully honouring the original design and Oris have succeeded there.
The original Tritium-filled hands and indices have now been replaced with Super-Luminova and very cleverly, a yellowed Radium colour has been used to give a vintage aesthetic of radioactive substances used in the past. The plastic 'Tropic Design' strap also adds to the 60's feel of the watch but may not be to everyone's taste. Seeing as conventional lugs have been used (not often the case with Oris), the strap is easily swapped with a generic replacement. A shark mesh bracelet would have been this writer's first choice for this design.
With the price at EUR 1600 at the time of release, Oris have done well to produce something this special without adding too much to the cost. Compromises have been made in all the right places to keep costs down and to release a faithful reproduction of a vintage classic with all the benefits of modern watchmaking.
This review is for the upcoming watch action being held at Bonhams in Kightsbridge, London. The lots that have been chosen for review are those which have caught my eye as being potential bargains. The full list of lots and full descriptions can be viewed at the following link to Bonhams website.
Lot 131: Rolex Date (1962)
This ladies Rolex comes in 18k white gold. At 30mm, it's a typically small ladie's watch and has a calendar. The condition of the watch looks good and for a white gold Rolex, this looks like very good value for anyone looking for a watch like this.
A well-maintained 1970's watch by Movado with chronograph and date. A fairly rare watch, this model looks very refined with its light blue centre chronograph second hand and well-defined bezel. At 43mm, it's the perfect size for most men.
In my opinion, one of Omega's most attractive designs ever. Features include an internal rotating bezel, second time zone hand as well as 24 hour timekeeping on a subsidiary dial. This particular watch needs a bit of care as there is visible corrosion on the case and strap. A service and clean would probably have it back to top condition. Case size is 43mm.
A Rolex Oysterdate in moderate condition. There are visible signs of wear on the case and crystal and the watch would benefit from a professional polish and probably a service. With a case size is 35mm, it's probably too small for most men but would suit a lady who prefers a slightly larger watch.
This DeVille is in great condition and relatively new. The watch would benefit from a strap change from the current one to give it a more classic look. Case size is 39mm, a perfect dress watch size for most men.
This Monaco is my pick of the auction for bargains. It's the chronograph model and is in great condition. A unique feature is that this particular model is branded with the traditional Heuer logo which was used before the Tag Heuer partnership. At 10 years old, and with an estimated price of £700-1000 it looks set to sell for what the standard non-chronograph model usually sells for at auction. Case size is 38mm.
The Snorkel II is a welcomed re-make of a vintage Bulova diver's model. The standard steel mesh strap adds to the vintage feel and Bulova have been careful in faithfully recreating this particular watch.
As part of the Accurton range, these watches run off a battery powered high-frequency movement that results in a sweeping second hand. Owners can enjoy the benefits of quartz accuracy and reliability along with the pleasing aesthetic of a gracefully gliding second hand, usually only associated with mechanical movements.
A collection of vintage Snorkel watches.
The watch features an internal bezel for timekeeping. This internal dial which is graduated in minutes, is turned by one of the two crowns and then locked into place. Water resistance is to 200m or 20 ATM.
Retailing for around £350 in the UK (at the time of writing) or a far more reasonable $275 in the US, this watch offers great 60's and 70's design and a watch with great heritage at a very affordable price. Vintage models sell for anything between £250 and £500 depending on condition.
If a vintage Heuer Autavia is a little out of reach, the Autodromo Prototipo might be the answer. With styling inspired by vintage racing chronographs of the 1970's, this watch beautifully reproduces the look of the timepieces of the era.
The Prototipo is powered by a Seiko hybrid meca-quartz movement which offers a sweep second hand and instant chronograph reset just like a mechanical watch, but with the reliability and accuracy of a quartz movement.
With a case width of 42mm it's not too large but big enough for modern trends. Besides the chronograph with tachymeter scale, also included is a date aperture at 6 o'clock, water resistance to 50m and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. An alternative large-hole racing strap is also available. The watches can be bought directly from the manufacturers website. At $625 these are not cheap but it's a good looking and reliable modern alternative to a vintage Heuer Autavia or other similar watches of the same era. At time of writing, second hand models are almost impossible to find so it's difficult to tell yet what used prices are like or how much of their value these watches are likely to hold, but based on the design and quality, it's likely to be a fairly secure investment should you ever want to part with it.
If you've found the Casio G Shocks just a bit too pricey for a sports watch, then this budget hero Tough Solar presents a great alternative. At around £30 from internet retailers, this watch represents very good value and although being right near the bottom of the cost scale, is currently one of Casio's best looking watches.
Look closely and you'll notice that the entire face of the watch is a solar panel which powers a rechargeable battery. With only a few days of charging, the watch will run for months. For economy of power, the minute hand only advances every 20 seconds and if the watch is left in the dark for a few days, the hands return to 12 o'clock and the watch enters a sleep mode to preserve power. As soon as it detects movement or light, the hands whirr right back to the correct time. Timekeeping is excellent with this model and it will lose or gain only one or two seconds per month. All the usual functions that Casio users will be used to are present with stopwatch, timer, world time, 5 alarms as well as a power indicator all on board.
The evidence of the Tough Solar's budget nature is that the watch feels much lighter than a G Shock and the case plastics feel a little brittle. A tap on the crystal with a fingernail reveals that's it's made of plastic and not glass or sapphire. The strap also feels a lot less rubbery than those on the G Shocks and there is a plastic buckle instead of a steel one. The strap issue is easily resolved with the fitting of something more substantial, and just that small upgrade would change the feel of the watch a fair bit. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar or 100m rather than the 200m of the more pricey models. The stopwatch is also a little frustrating in that it only records up to one hour and the digital readout is a little small to read when running or swimming, making the watch suitable for outdoor lifestyles rather than for serious sports timing.
All that said, this is a really special go-anywhere timepiece and there are very few sports watches that compare to it in this price range. You won't need to change the rechargeable battery for about 15 years and like most Casios, there's a good chance this watch will outlive its owner.
Looking for a 'Mad Men' 50's style watch for the boardroom but don't want to break the bank? The Accurist Vintage is not a bad option.
Accurist was established in 1946 in Clerkenwell, London, the hub of London watchmaking at the time. Accurist watches were originally made entirely from Swiss manufactured parts but manufacturing was moved to the far east in recent decades. By the early 90's, the company had become the UK's largest brand in terms of value. The brand was reinforced even further when the company supplied the Greenwich Observatory with a new atomic clock in the mid-90's, which officially keeps time for the whole world. Accurist are the only watch company to ever be formally associated with with the observatory.
Accurist has a vast range of watches for all tastes but the Vintage stands out for it's classic looks and excellent value. Prices start at around £30 from internet retailers which is staggeringly cheap for this stylish model with includes a date at 3 o'clock. The quartz movement won't be anything to boast about, but that's not the point of this budget hero. There's a choice of leather strap or vintage-style NATO straps. If you like it, snap one up fast as this particular style is no longer in production and at the time of writing, is becoming harder to find due to its popularity.
The quartz and digital revolution of the 70's and 80's that came out of Japan hit the Swiss watchmaking industry hard. It's estimated that between 1977 & 1983, the number of people employed in the industry in Switzerland dropped from 90 000 to less than 40 000. Swatch hit back with the creation of their colourful plastic watches which were cheap to make and to buy and were the first Swiss watches to be battery powered. Not only were they cheap but they were cleverly designed too; the three-pronged hinge on the strap prevented the strap from coming off during water sports and the battery could be easily replaced by the owner. The movement was fixed to the case back, therefore simplifying the workings and reducing weight and size and replacement straps could be bought in different colours to customise the watch. The downside of the rationalised manufacturing process is that every Swatch is a sealed unit and can't be repaired if the movement fails, effectively making it a disposable watch.
Swatch prototypes from 1982
The Swatch revolution brought about a change of thinking with regards to multiple watch ownership. Swatch collecting became popular and the watch became a fashion accessory. No longer was a watch simply a once-off special gift for an 18th or 21st birthday but something to collect, an attitude which is now common among watch enthusiasts. Swatch released their models alongside the fashion industry seasons, which meant (and still means) that each swatch design is a limited edition and potentially collectible. Some of the early 80's models now sell for tens of thousands of dollars to watch collectors.
The 'Techno-sphere' model of 1985 is another iconic and sought-after example.
Recent models have sported simple, colourful and striking designs which are similar to the original models of the mid-80's.
Swatch's rapid success led to all sorts of exotic designs designs in the range as well as a collaboration with Mercedes Benz to create the Smart Car.
The Success of the business led to the formation of the Swatch Group which was able to buy and rescue a number of struggling watch brands including Omega, Tissot, Hamilton, Blancpain, Breguet Glasshutte Original, Certina, Tiffany & Co, Calvin Klein, Jaquet Droz and others, resulting in the Swatch group being regarded as the saviour of Swiss watchmaking.
Despite there being such a choice of designs, the classic geometry of the original designs has remained a favourite with buyers and in recent years, Swatch have returned to producing models which are aesthetically very close the originals with simple, clean looks and plenty of colour. Technology now allows for the parts of the movement to have colour applied to them which helps highlight the intricacy of the parts. An automatic model was released in the mid-90's but reliability was a problem. Recently, Swatch released their Sistem-51 models with a highly advanced, and very attractive automatic movement with a staggering 90-hour power reserve, more than double what most automatic movements can offer.
For those interested in Swatch collecting, www.squiggly.com is the site to visit. Here, collectors can browse every model ever produced and old models are available to buy if they're in stock. It's also a useful resource to value an old Swatch that you might have lying around.
Some models to avoid: in the mid-90's, Swatch produced transparent straps in various colours with elaborate designs on them. These were not printed onto the strap but laminated on with a thin film. These straps are prone to peeling and cracking with age and may not be the best models for collecting. Clear straps and cases are also prone to yellowing over time, and collectors may want to focus their buying on watches with solid colours on the cases and straps.
Below is a brief timeline of the company's history, which includes the auction price of a 'Jellyfish', a model once owned by this writer, but which sadly broke a few decades ago.
Bremont are releasing two watch collections in conjunction with the America's Cup in 2015. Bremont are the official timing partner to the America's Cup as well Oracle Team USA. The above video has details of the new watches.
For those who've not heard of Bremont before, the following video gives a short history of this relatively new British brand. Although quite a young brand, they have already built up an impressive collection of industry and business awards. Based in Henley-On-Thames, Bremont recently made the bold decision to move their watchmaking from Switzerland to England, a very unusual step for any luxury watch maker. The watches are classic in their design and are of a exceptional build quality. The Bremont boutique in Mayfair London is well worth a visit for any watch enthusiast.
The full America's Cup collection is pictured below. Click here to go to the Bremont website.
